RUSTY GOODWILL.
RUSTY GOODWILL.
UNFOLDING UNIFORM.
Military uniform has long influenced Western fashion, with enduring design elements such as lapels, cuffs, pleats, and extra buttons. These components symbolize discipline, as many require the wearer's active participation, like ironing pleats or polishing brass, to maintain their intended appearance.
Many subcultures, from punk to cowboy, have repurposed military uniforms for both aesthetic and practical reasons. Authenticity in these subcultural styles often relies on the wearer's involvement, such as starching the creases of cowboy jeans or patchworking a punk jacket, making it difficult for fast fashion to replicate. This collection explores the slow fashion potential within these and other subcultural styling techniques by recontextualizing them back into their roots of the military uniform.
Central to this collection are pleats, folds, and a developed twisting technique, which displays both sides of the fabric. This technique was developed with the intention of resisting easy duplication by fast fashion brands while also giving the pieces multiple ways to be worn, aligning with the principles of slow fashion.
The muted colour palette draws from the heritage of military uniform, while the use of 100% natural fibres reinforces the collection’s slow fashion ethos. These fabrics not only echo the durability of military attire but also require regular care—ironing, maintaining and adjusting pleats and folds—which ensures a connection between the wearer and the garment. By resisting mass production and prioritizing the wearer’s involvement, this collection offers alternatives to the uniform that go beyond fast fashion’s limitations, enabling wearers to express individuality both on and off duty.