Yanzi Zhou

The modern qipao is arguably one of the most iconic and recognisable garments that represent Chinese femininity. Throughout its rich history, the qipao has constantly evolved alongside social, cultural and political changes, representing women’s liberation, modernity and femininity. Despite this, Western interpretations historically depicted the garment as a cultural costume, and as of recently, monetised into a fast fashion trend, overlooking its power of embodying changing perspectives of femininity.

Based on Edward Said’s theory of Orientalism, this collection recontextualises the West’s stereotypical, simplified and exoticised portrayal of the qipao through a nuanced lens of girlhood and its transition into womanhood. Traditionally, the qi pao embodied strength, power and confidence. However, this collection builds on this representation by embracing the coexistence of feelings of vulnerability and uncertainty prevalent during girlhood and the strength and power developed during the transition to womanhood. Conventional qipao elements have been reimagined through the manipulation of exaggerated silhouettes, contrasting proportions and playful layering of silk organza with jacquard to express the beauty and softness of vulnerability whilst acknowledging the strength that is developed transitioning to womanhood.